Farm Insurance

So on this Friday afternoon I finally have a moment to pause and contribute to the blog.

The recent swath of destruction in Vermont from Hurricane Irene has left its mark.  Generally revered as stoic and rugged, New Englanders have proven their name as they repair, rebuild and in some cases move on.  Some of us - my farm for example - had a few gusty blasts of hurricane wind and some brief power outages.  Others - for example my friend Kara at Evening Song Farm (check out their incredible documentation of their loss both on the video and through Facebook pictures at www.eveningsongcsa.com) - experienced a total and devastating loss.  I thought it fitting for a blog entry about the little discussed "farm insurance."

Now let me disclose to you that I'm not really qualified to write this entry.  I can hardly read my own insurance policy let alone anyone elses.  However, I have known two specific farms in the last twelve months that have been ravaged by disasters so great that it left them scratching their heads and asking a key two word question - why me? (see www.eveningsongcsa.com and www.petesgreens.com for photos; the first farm was ravaged by the recent hurricane and the second farm by fire in later winter) And seeing these farms wage through the despair that follows such a difficult loss has brought questions of liability and insurance to the forefront of our farm operations. 

The first kind of insurance - in my humble and uneducated opinion - every farm needs is general liability insurance.  This kind of insurance is usually provided through an agency or co-op that specializes in farm policies and it is my experience they are pretty good at it.  They will ask you questions about your farm's operations, how it interacts with the public and any products you sell and to what markets.  If the individual you're talking to sounds clueless or you're having to ask all the questions, excuse yourself politely stating your barn is on fire and hang up - you don't want to do business with them - especially as a new farmer.  You want someone on your side that knows what could happen even before you do - and someone that knows the insurance laws in your state inside and out. If you don't have the names of any insurance companies, ask local farmers who they use (they will be happy to tell you), ask your local feed store or even call your county extension agent and ask for a recommendation.  In a small town the agent probably lives close and might even be one of your neighbors - this is an ideal situation because this person wants their community and its members protected.

Then the responsibility falls on you - do your due-diligence and ask questions about the agency (such as if my barn burns down in the middle of the night or on the weekend, do they have someone on call that can help me immediately), their practices (how long does it take to get a claim paid), and for references from other customers.  If you're in a small town you have the benefit of being able to ask others if the agency is good and you'll get a good feel if they're warmly received in the community or not. 

Once you have selected a company to work with, you enter the "quote" phase of the farm insurance process.  This is the time where it pays to talk very frankly (see why you have to have a good feeling about this person?) with this person about your farm and its operations.  You need to be honest about your fears (this will help the individual find the right amount of coverage for you), your dreams for your farm, and where you see yourself in the next year or so.  For example, my farm is located on scenic Vermont Route 110, a well traveled route on which the speed limit is 50 miles per hour.  This means that often vehicles - cars, trucks and motorcycles - are speeding dangerously down this road and my house sits maybe twenty five feet from the road with half of the farm on the east side of the highway and the second part on the west side of the highway.  Animals are pastured on each side of this road and more frequently than I'd like to admit can be found meandering down the highway (oops - I know, I'm still working on my fencing skills).  My first questions to the insurance provider was about liability coverage in case one of our animals was in the road and a car hit it.  I was terrified of this - I didn't want my "new farmer" ignorance and poor fencing ability to kill anyone and worse yet, I sure didn't want to be sued if something happened.  We settled on policy limits (the maximum that can be paid out if there is an accident) that were well within normal limits so that my family and I were protected.  I no longer have nightmares about a motorcyclist getting killed because he/she hit 200 pound Pork Chop, our magical escaping pig (I'm serious that hardly any fence holds this pig!). 

Farm insurance is just like having a Home Owners policy with a big company such as American Family or State Farm - the more things you insure with them, the more discounts you get.  I selected a policy that included a type of renters insurance (I rent the farmhouse) that covered all my family's contents in the house (from the dressers and beds to the socks and underwear) in case there was a catastrophic loss and also covered the farm business itself.  The liability we just talked about protected me in case I did something dumb like hit the barn with the tractor (I did that about a month ago - it made a horrible noise) and damage a piece of the property (remember, I rent the house and barn, etc. so we need to be insured), or if there is a disaster like the barn burning down or a tractor catching fire (yes, my dad put the wrong size battery in one of our older tractors about a month ago and it caught fire right in the yard - it was scary as hell!  I couldn't even remember where the fire extinguisher was I was so shocked!).  If our tractor was in the barn and burned the barn down, our coverage would have provided coverage for liability for the property damage. 

Another part of the policy is that I set it up as a "scheduled liability" policy.  As a newer farmer I don't have a ton of farm "stuff" yet - my tractor has a loan on it and I only have a few other pieces of farm equipment so it didn't make sense for me to have a large policy to insure only a few pieces of equipment and a few animals.  So, my agent and I came up with a list of items and those items specifically are insured (like my milking equipment and animals).  If I buy anything new, I have to call her and get them added to the policy specifically.  It puts a little more burden on me, but the reward is a manageable policy.

The final part of insurance I want to talk about in this blog entry is for crops (or stored crops).  These aren't necessarily automatically insured through your regular policy so make sure you ask your agent specifically.  Special crop insurance is available for just about anything you grow (from greenhouse plants to apple crops).  You usually have to purchase it at the beginning of the season prior to harvest (remember, its like a contingency plan in case something catastrophic happens to your harvest).  I mention stored crops in case you have anything you harvest and then store for a period of time such as root veggies for your CSA or hay for your animals.  A local CSA - Pete's Greens - had a terrible fire and lost all their root crops that were being stored because they weren't specifically insured.  If you have any doubt, ask your agent specific questions so you can be confident.

When you're dealing with insurance on your farm, I have found it is best to develop a strong relationship with your agent - go with your gut.  You have to feel safe asking "dumb" questions because those are the very questions that will help you make sure your family and farm are covered in the event something unimaginable happens.

As I close, I'd like to share a personal story.  While our farm team was debating the ins and outs of farm insurance, we started having serious fencing problems.  Cows out daily in neighbors' yards and driveways, pigs running down the highway and goats in the trees (no kidding).  Our fencing system was failing and we had to band-aid it rapidly and with very little money to replace anything.  The best fix would have been to hire a contractor to come out and put up a 7 strand high tensile fencing - it was not even a dream of the budget.  So we retrieved wayward animals and tried desperately to fix the fence - and wasted way too much of our day chasing animals.  One night I woke to the sight of blue and red flashing lights - rescue vehicles.  I raced downstairs and outside on the porch to see a sickening sight - the entire road in front of the house was covered with police cruisers, ambulances, and fire trucks.  I choked down sick, scared vomit - then I slunk to the side yard to count cows (yes, they were all there, laying down chewing their cud and watching the action - I almost kissed all their wet, slobbery noses in celebration).  After realizing it wasn't a 1,500 pound cow of mine that caused the accident, I had the nerve to walk up to one of the firefighters and ask what the blazes was going on and the answer was relieving - a drunk driver had gone off the road and fled the scene.  Whew!  Needless to say, I called our agent the next morning and explained I should have bought the damn insurance months ago and asked her to get the policy started.  This reminded me that accidents happen - mother nature refuses to be controlled.  The one thing you can control is making sure your insurance is current, the policy stays paid (on time - remember if you are late on your payment and something happens you aren't covered!) and you have everything covered you need to.

Happy Farming!

Sarah

Line Drying Clothes



Sarah's Awesome Homesteader Laundry Operation

Reasons to line dry your laundry:

- Save $$: Try skipping the use of your expensive gas or electric dryer (even the energy star models) and you could save hundreds every year!
- Show Mother Earth a little love <3 : Save our precious fossil fuels by using the sun (which I don’t know about you but here in the Midwest, Grandmama Sunshine has been giving us LOTS of love!) to dry your clothes.
- No Cost Humidifier: In the winter when you just can’t bear to line dry outside, hang an indoor drying rack up and the wet clothes will humidify that dry winter air inside your home. 
- Be Gentle to Your Clothes: Most dryers can be tough on clothes, letting them snag on the pieces or get twisted and knotted together causing them to wear out quicker.
- Fire Safety: Clothes dryer fires account for about 15,600 structure fires, 15 deaths and 400 injuries annually! Yikes.
- It just makes you feel good and actually ENJOY doing your laundry.

Hang lines where ever you can!

Tips for Success with Line Drying:

- Whites in the Light and Darks in the Shade: Sunlight is a natural bleacher, it makes all your whites crisp and fresh looking. But your darker colors need to stay in a more shady area so they aren’t faded by the sun’s rays.

- Shake wet clothes out and pull taught on the line to prevent wrinkles.

- Line dry towels 95% on the line and finish off in the dryer for fluffiness!


A breezy spot is best.


- Learn how to tie a good slip knot. Ok, there are people who will tell you otherwise because there are some fancy knots out there and pulley systems and those are all very cool. But I am simple. Twine + slipknot + two posts = Successful Line Drying

- Read the labels: Some stretchy fabrics or sweaters say to dry flat….that means DON’T LINE DRY!

Follow those simple tips and you are on your way to a green and more pleasurable laundry experience!

 

Growing Sweet Corn: What you need to know

If your anything like me, growing corn in your garden is what MAKES it a garden! Everyday I walk by my small corn field and gaze at its magic. It is thick and lush and critters tend to hide in it. Which honestly...is creepy and cool. I am a girl first...then a farmer. :-)  When it's stormy and windy I imagine magical fairies hanging onto the strong thick stalks for protection from the harsh elements.

I imagined when I first started gardening, that since everywhere you look in the Midwest there is a cornfield that growing, this veggie would be the easiest endeavor I took on. I was SO wrong. I killed three seasons of corn for varying reasons. First too dry, then too wet and then finally I simply didn't plant enough.

Now I understand....there is method to growing corn. Let me share my experiences:

Firstly, you can't plant just one or two stalks of corn. You need rows, a few of them at least to achieve successful pollination as they are wind pollinated plants.

Traditional vs. Non-Traditional - We had success planting in several straight long rows like you see off many Midwestern rural highways. It was easy to plant with a seed spreader and very attractive. But we also had success with the Native American 3 sisters approach to planting. By planting a few bunches of sweet corn, pole beans at the bases of the corn and surrounded by squash plants. This great permaculture technique works because the corn stalks provide a support for the beans to grow up while the beans are nitrogen fixers for the soil and the squash deters animal invaders coming after your veggies as well as much needed ground cover to deter weeds and keep the moisture in. Don't overplant the squash....remember they are big plants and need room to roam.

Plant corn on the north side of your garden. It gets tall and you don't want it shading everything else!

Water well to germinate the seeds after fertilizing. Fertilize again when ears begin to form. If your leaves begin to face up towards the sun....they are praying for rain. Water them!

Finally, harvest when the silks turn brown and the ear feels tender when squeezed. You can take your nail and puncture a kernel as a final test of readiness. If the kernel shows a milky white liquid it is ready to harvest.

Growing corn is immensely rewarding and easy. It has many uses and all are equally beneficial from freezing entire ears, to canning corn kernels or drying and using for animal feed or letting the dogs chew and eat finished cobs.

Farm Photo of the Day

Our love doesn't discriminate here at Berried Treasures Farm!

Second Season Crops

If your like me, at this point in the year you are completely not interested in gardening any longer. Seriously! It is crazy hot. You've been harvesting, weeding, canning, weeding, chopping & freezing, and weeding like mad. Who the heck says to themselves, "Hey! Let's sit down and plan our Fall garden!" Not me.

But, if you don't force yourself to do this task, you are really missing out on a great second season of harvest. So, like with most things I force myself into doing, around 10pm after my kiddo's are fast asleep, I sit down with a big bowl of homemade strawberry ice cream and get to planning. :-)

Here's the scoop if your new to Fall crops. I am not talking about greenhouses or fancy row covers - those are super cool and a completely different story. I am talking about replanting several types of veggies straight into your garden bed after your summer harvest has finished. Not all plants are good candidates for second season crops. Here in the Midwest I am faithful to my cabbage, lettuce, spinach, radishes, broccoli, green beans, peas and sometimes carrots and onions as good choices for Fall planting. Check with your local extension office or consult Mr. Google to find out what crops would work best in your area and for planting dates. In my neck of the woods, we have to have all our Fall crops in the ground by August 15th. The problem with that? That is also tomato harvesting time. Ugh. Our busiest few weeks of the whole year - harvesting and canning every day of the week - but of course it is now that I must muster up the energy to plant yet another season of crops.

There has to be an upside or nobody would do it. Here it is! In the Fall, weeds and bugs are less prolific and it rains more - so no need to worry about high water bills or timely daily irrigation. Plus, the temps are way more tolerable than in those nasty summer months. In my book, those are some pretty big pros!

What you need to know before planting: Don't replant a crop in the same bed twice in a season. You'll drain the soil of all its nutrients. Rotate your beds. You can direct sow carrots, radishes, lettuce, spinach, beans and peas directly into the ground. But you will need to start seeds indoors or purchase transplants for the cabbage. Mulch well and make sure the ground is really wet when you plant the seeds so they will have the opportunity to germinate. Something we learned this year was to mulch our beds first and then make rows in the mulch for planting after. It is SOOO much easier to mulch before seeding instead of after the plant has started to grow. Trust me on that one. It was a lesson learned the hard way with much sweat and gritted teeth involved. :-)

Guard Donkeys

In my neck of the woods, guard dogs are just about all I see for the small or large homesteader. But in fact, a guard donkey, that lives with your livestock may be an even better option. Let me explain.

Donkeys are hyper-sensitive to predators. They have great instincts and are incredibly protective of livestock. When faced with a predator they will likely chase and stomp the enemy. They eat the same feed as sheep, goats and cattle - so there is no need for special attention to their feed needs. They simply live with the herd.

There is a downside. Not every donkey is cut out for guard duty. A good choice would be one that has been raised around the type of animal you'd like it to guard. Also, an intact jack would be far too aggressive for guard duty.

But keeping these tips in mind, I think guard donkeys are pretty much the neatest thing I have encountered since raising farm animals and definitely something for everyone raising a small or large herd of their own to consider.

Tomato-ology

You will find I rarely like to look at the science of gardening. That is really my husband's thing. I am aware there is a delicate scientific reason why gardening works the way it does - I just don't care much for it. I much prefer the, let's try and see, method.

But even I know that when my tomatoes look ill I need a little science on my side.

I thought I might share some common tomato ailments that I see in my own crop and what organic methods I use to correct these issues.



Spotted wilt virus


I am totally the first to admit that the tie-dye effect in these tomatoes is pretty cool - but the bottom line for me is are they still good eating. No? We have a problem Houston!
This virus is spread almost entirely by thrips (you know, those super tiny yellowish worm looking buggies!). As much as I hate to say it, the only way to control this one is to destroy the infected plants, keep your beds well weeded and start your crop from seed if you can, as the virus runs wild in greenhouses.




Sunscald


This occurs in my garden for one reason....I am too lazy to stake my tomatoes. Well.....and too cheap. :-) When the fruit of the plant isn't provided shade from the leaves above it gets a little sunburned. Honestly, it doesn't happen terribly often, so don't let this deter you from not staking your tomatoes if your planting in large numbers. We grew 500 tomato plants this year and being a small family farm, it just wasn't in the budget or our energy levels to stake every plant. So we staked one bed of 50 and let the rest grow as they chose. The result...we saw a few more sun scalded tomatoes in the unstaked beds. That was it. Want to know the good news? You can, in most cases, cut off the scalded area to reveal perfectly good fruit.


Cloudy Spot


This is probably our most common problem. These discolored yellowish spots are caused by stink bugs. When they feed on the fruit they inject a toxin that creates this discoloration accompanied by a spongy white spot underneath the surface. You can purchase several organic pesticide type products, but most of these eliminate the good buggies too. The best way to cut down on stink bugs in the garden is to keep it well weeded. The bit of good news is that you can remove the peel on infected fruit and it is still fine inside. They do spoil quicker though, so preserve or eat them quickly!




Blossom end rot


I am always so sad when I discover blossom end rot in our crop. The tomato usually looks shiny and wonderful from the top and it isn't until you happily pluck it from the vine that you discover the bottom is rotten. This is usually caused from a calcium deficiency in the soil. Add some high-calcium lime and your good to go! The effected fruit it still edible as well, just cut off the rotting area.